Fashion · Materials · Belief
From coconut leather in Kerala to cactus leather in Mexico, a journey through how cultures, traditions and new materials are shaping vegan fashion around the world.
Vegan fashion, which excludes animal-derived materials such as leather, wool, silk and fur, is gaining momentum worldwide. In their place, it uses plant-based fabrics, synthetic alternatives and new innovations such as mushroom leather and recycled textiles.
While vegan fashion is often linked to sustainability, its impact varies with tradition, innovation and local fashion movements. Looking at vegan fashion across cultures shows how historical textile practices, ethics and environmental realities shape the way we dress today.
More Than One Answer
Vegan fashion plays a role in a wider movement towards more responsible fashion, but its environmental and ethical impact depends on several factors.
Animal Welfare and Ethics
Many cultures have long-standing ethical concerns about using animals for clothing. In India, the principle of ahimsa, non-violence, has inspired gentler alternatives to conventional silk.
Environmental Impact
In regions where livestock farming drives deforestation and water stress, such as parts of Brazil and Ethiopia, plant-based and recycled materials are increasingly explored as alternatives.
Material Innovation
Traditional materials such as hemp in China, raffia in West Africa and cork in Portugal sit alongside new bio-fabricated materials grown from fungi, fruit waste and plant proteins.
Challenges and Trade-offs
Some vegan alternatives rely on petroleum-based synthetics such as PU and PVC, raising concerns about microplastics and biodegradability. The challenge is balancing ethics, environmental footprint and durability.
The Vegan Materials Spectrum
PLANT-BASED
Cotton, hemp, linen, jute, cork, raffia
BIO-FABRICATED
Mycelium, fruit-waste and plant-protein materials
RECYCLED
Recycled polyester, nylon and textile waste
PETROLEUM-BASED
Virgin PU and PVC “vegan leathers”
Not all vegan materials are equal: read the label
Vegan fashion is not a one-size-fits-all solution, but a movement shaped by cultural heritage, environmental need and technological change.
Blending Tradition with Innovation
CottonJuteNatural dyesCoconut leather
India has a deep-rooted history with plant-based textiles such as cotton and jute. Some of the world’s earliest evidence of cotton cultivation and weaving comes from the Indus Valley, where textile production was highly advanced thousands of years ago.
Today, Kerala-based Malai has pioneered a flexible leather alternative made from coconut water and banana fibre, while artisans in Tamil Nadu and across India continue to dye cloth with natural plant extracts. Designers such as Anita Dongre, through her label Grassroot, have championed sustainable, artisan-led fashion.
Sustainable Minimalism
Heritage
While formal kimono were traditionally silk, everyday clothing for most people in Japan was made from plant fibres such as hemp and, later, cotton. Japan also developed shifu, cloth woven from yarn made of twisted washi paper, a remarkable plant-based textile.
Innovation
Japanese company Spiber has developed Brewed Protein, a fibre made through fermentation using plant-based sugars, offering new alternatives to animal fibres. Japanese brands have also begun incorporating such materials in response to demand for more responsible fashion.
Luxury Meets Responsibility
Europe has become a centre for vegan fashion. Italy, famous for its leather goods, is also pioneering alternatives: Frumat in Bolzano makes leather alternatives from apple waste, and Vegea transforms grape skins and seeds left over from winemaking into plant-based materials. Long before the modern leather industry, Italian makers worked extensively with plant dyes and woven fabrics.
British designer Stella McCartney has never used leather or fur since founding her label in 2001, proving that ethical fashion can be luxury fashion. In 2021, both Stella McCartney and Hermès unveiled bags made with mycelium, the root network of mushrooms.
Spotlight · United Kingdom
The UK is home to a thriving vegan fashion scene, from Will’s Vegan Shoes to Piñatex, a leather alternative made from pineapple-leaf fibres, developed by Dr Carmen Hijosa and her company Ananas Anam. Leather alternatives made from mushrooms, cork and even wine waste are increasingly popular across European markets.
In Scandinavia, brands such as Filippa K have built their reputation on minimalism and longevity, a “buy less, wear longer” approach that shares much with the thinking behind vegan and slow fashion.
The Intersection of Activism and Style
In North America, vegan fashion is closely tied to ethical consumerism and environmental activism. Long before, many Indigenous peoples used plant materials for clothing; in the Pacific Northwest, for example, cedar bark was woven into capes, skirts and hats.
Los Angeles has become a hub for vegan fashion, home to Vegan Fashion Week, founded in 2019 to showcase innovative, animal-free design. Canadian brands such as Matt & Nat and Vancouver’s Native Shoes focus on recycled and cruelty-free materials, while New York designers such as Vaute Couture and Brave GentleMan have redefined vegan style by merging ethics with high-end design.
A Heritage of Natural Textiles
Many African cultures have long traditions of plant-based textiles, making vegan fashion a natural fit in some regions.
Ethiopian textiles date back centuries, and shemma, handwoven cotton cloth, remains a cornerstone of Ethiopian dress. In Uganda, the Baganda people’s bark cloth, made by beating the inner bark of the mutuba tree, is recognised by UNESCO as part of the world’s intangible cultural heritage. Raffia, woven from palm fibres, has been used across West and Central Africa for generations.
In Ghana, Osei-Duro works with local artisans to create hand-dyed, small-batch clothing, and traditional plant-based dyeing techniques continue to support more responsible fashion. In Kenya, designer Ami Doshi Shah draws on natural materials and local making traditions in her work.
At the same time, leather remains economically important in many places, including Ethiopia, which has one of the largest livestock populations in Africa. Any shift towards vegan materials has to respect the livelihoods that depend on these industries.
Indigenous Making Meets Ethical Fashion
Latin America has a long history of plant-based textiles, particularly in Indigenous communities where makers create clothing using fibres such as agave and cotton.
Mexico
Mesoamerican peoples, including the Maya and Aztecs, wove agave fibres, known as ixtle, into cloth, and cotton was a prized textile. Today, Mexico is a leader in vegan alternatives: Desserto, founded in 2019, makes a leather alternative from nopal cactus.
Brazil
In Brazil, where the leather industry is significant, there is a growing push for alternatives, including natural Amazonian rubber and recycled materials. Brands such as Insecta Shoes are leading the country’s vegan footwear movement.
Many Latin American designers also champion slow fashion, which aligns closely with both responsible consumption and cultural making traditions.
Worth Knowing · Not Always Vegan
Ahimsa silk lets the moth emerge before the silk is collected. It’s gentler, but it’s still silk, an animal fibre.
Kente is traditionally handwoven by Asante and Ewe weavers in cotton, and often silk.
Vegetable-tanned leather avoids harsh chemicals, but it’s still leather.
The Materials Library
Innovations to Know
INDIA
Malai
Coconut water and banana fibre
UK
Piñatex
Pineapple-leaf fibre
MEXICO
Desserto
Nopal cactus
ITALY
Frumat and Vegea
Apple and grape waste
JAPAN
Spiber
Brewed Protein fibre
GLOBAL
Mycelium
Grown from mushroom roots
Spiritual Perspectives on Vegan Fashion
Spiritual beliefs shape ethical fashion choices across many cultures, encouraging plant-based and cruelty-free materials.
HINDUISM AND JAINISM
The principle of ahimsa, non-violence, leads many to avoid animal products, including in what they wear.
BUDDHISM
Teachings on compassion for all living beings encourage simple, natural materials, reflected in the plant-dyed robes of monks across Asia.
JUDAISM
The principle of tza’ar ba’alei chayim forbids causing animals unnecessary suffering, leading some to choose plant-based or cruelty-free fashion.
CHRISTIANITY AND ISLAM
Ideas of stewardship and mindful consumption inspire many to choose more ethical fashion, including designers across the Middle East and North Africa exploring plant-based alternatives.
INDIGENOUS TRADITIONS
Many Indigenous communities across the Americas, Africa and Australia hold a deep spiritual connection with nature, reflected in textiles such as raffia in West Africa and agave fibre in Mexico.
The Future of Vegan Fashion
A Global Shift
Vegan fashion is evolving across cultures, shaped by history, belief, local resources and consumer values. Some regions have long traditions of plant-based textiles; others are adapting through innovation and ethical awareness. The challenge is balancing ethics with accessibility, and making sure vegan fashion is not only kind to animals but genuinely kind to the planet.
From luxury houses in Europe to vegan pioneers in North America, and from centuries-old textile traditions in Asia, Africa and Latin America to the laboratories growing tomorrow’s materials, vegan fashion is proving to be more than a trend. It’s part of a global shift towards a more ethical and responsible future.