The Role of Saudade in Sustainability Across Fashion, Music, and Film
Saudade, a uniquely Portuguese term, is often described as a deep sense of longing or nostalgia—a profound emotional connection to the past, often tinged with melancholy and loss. The term’s origins date back to the 16th century during the Portuguese Age of Exploration, a period when Portuguese sailors traveled far from home, creating a deep sense of yearning for the familiar, the loved ones left behind, and the homeland itself.
This feeling of longing was not just personal, but cultural, reflecting the broader experience of displacement, loss, and the bittersweet emotions tied to the unknown. Saudade is not merely about nostalgia for the past, but also an awareness of impermanence, the passage of time, and the irreversible changes brought on by history. It holds profound implications for sustainability in fashion, music, and film, and reflects a deep emotional connection to the past and future impacts, offering a unique lens through which to view these industries.
Saudade in Fashion
The mass-production model that emerged in the 20th century, especially post-World War II, with the advent of fast fashion and cheaper manufacturing in developing countries, has led to the overproduction of low-quality clothing, much of which ends up in landfills.
In fashion, Saudade can inspire a longing for a more ethical, simpler approach, reconnecting us with traditional artisanal craftsmanship often overshadowed by today’s rapid mass production. It evokes nostalgia for a time when clothes were made to last and acknowledges the environmental and social impacts of fast fashion. Brands like Marita Moreno exemplify this ethos by reviving artisanal techniques, using local resources, and upcycling materials, while also paying homage to the craftsmanship of the past.
Similarly, brands like Naz and ISTO. also draw inspiration from the past, focusing on transparency and the use of natural fibers—values that reflect a time when clothing was made with more thoughtfulness and care. Naz’s focus on high-quality, long-lasting clothing and ISTO.’s emphasis on sustainable production methods both resonate with saudade by encouraging a return to practices that honor the environment and labor rights.
Saudade in Music
In music, saudade is deeply ingrained in Portuguese cultural history, especially through Fado, a traditional genre known for its melancholic tone and themes of longing, loss, and nostalgia. Fado emerged in the early 19th century in Lisbon, drawing on the diverse cultural influences of Portuguese sailors, Afro-Portuguese rhythms, and the working-class experience. It became a symbol of the Portuguese national identity and captured the emotions of the common people—the yearning for something lost, distant, or unattainable.
In music, Saudade manifests as a yearning for the past or distant places and people. Drawing inspiration from traditional melodies, instruments, and rhythms, it reflects a longing for a more harmonious relationship with the environment and represents a melancholic awareness of the need for ecological preservation.
Fado artists like Amália Rodrigues, Ana Moura, and Mariza continue to explore the themes of saudade, blending traditional Fado with contemporary elements, while expressing a collective yearning for a more harmonious, sustainable future. In Amália Rodrigues’ iconic song “Fado da Saudade”, she sings, “I sing fado for me. Open the doors which lead out from the heart; and my pain without end…” These lyrics capture the essence of saudade—a sense of painful longing for something precious that may never return, yet continues to shape one’s emotional and cultural identity.
Saudade in Film
n film, saudade is often depicted as a reflection on the consequences of loss, social injustice, and environmental degradation. Historically, the genre of film has often used saudade to explore themes of displacement and cultural erosion, especially in post-colonial narratives or stories about marginalized communities. In a globalized world where local cultures and ways of life are increasingly at risk of being swallowed by larger economic forces, saudade evokes a poignant reflection on these changes, offering a space to confront the loss of cultural and environmental heritage.
One notable example is “A Fábrica de Nada” (The Nothing Factory), directed by Pedro Pinho, which captures the struggles of Portuguese factory workers in the face of unemployment and globalization. The film tells the story of workers who resist the loss of their factory, their jobs, and their community identity, offering a poignant metaphor for the struggle to preserve cultural heritage amidst economic pressures. Saudade in this context is not just about longing for a lost way of life, but about the painful recognition of what is at risk, and the need to protect it. This film mirrors the larger societal and environmental issues facing the world today: the erosion of local cultures, environmental degradation, and the unsustainable practices that fuel these crises.
Saudade and Sustainability
Saudade informs sustainability by promoting enduring quality and traditional practices, fostering emotional connections to products. When balanced with innovation, it offers valuable perspectives without overly focusing on the past. Despite its associations with longing and nostalgia, Saudade does not always romanticize the past as better. It acknowledges the complexity of human experience and the bittersweet nature of memory. We can encapsulate Saudade by honoring heritage while addressing historical flaws, and merging tradition with modern innovation.
- In fashion, saudade promotes a return to artisanal craftsmanship and sustainable practices, offering a counter-narrative to the waste and exploitation of fast fashion. It calls for a return to quality and longevity in design, ensuring that garments are not discarded after a single season.
- In music, saudade draws from tradition, confronting the uncomfortable truths of environmental degradation and social injustice, while using cultural expression as a vehicle for change.
- In film, saudade challenges the romanticization of the past and instead reflects on the loss of culture and the environment, urging us to confront these losses and take action to protect what is left.
Ultimately, saudade serves as a bridge between honoring the past and driving innovation for a sustainable future. By embracing saudade, we acknowledge the importance of cultural heritage and ecological stewardship, while also embracing the need for innovation and change. This blending of tradition and modernity offers a powerful pathway to creating a more sustainable, responsible, and inclusive future across fashion, music, and film.
