An Op-Ed on the Intersection of Culture and Sustainability in Japan
The global fashion industry, a multicultural phenomenon, thrives on the diversity of cultural backgrounds and artistic expressions. As the ethical fashion sector grows, many are turning to traditional practices and cultural philosophies for sustainable solutions.
Japan’s Praise of Shadows: Sustainability Rooted in Tradition
Fashion designers worldwide increasingly look beyond aesthetics for inspiration, and Japanese brands, from independent labels to high street giants, are embracing sustainable practices influenced by their cultural heritage. Three years after Dame Vivienne Westwood urged the fashion world to “Buy less, choose well, make it last…” Japanese textile expert Reiko Sudo responded with a similar philosophy. She believes Westwood’s call reflects a shift away from disposable fashion, echoing Japan’s age-old commitment to durability and thoughtful consumption.
During the Edo period (1603–1868), a “cherish, mend, and darn” philosophy prevailed, advocating for the repair and reuse of clothing rather than the abandonment of worn items. Today, the Japanese spirit of Mottainai—meaning not letting things that still have value go to waste—has re-emerged in fashion, directly influencing contemporary sustainable movements.
Her involvement in the Re-Muji initiative, launched in 2014 by Muji—a global lifestyle brand—brings to life Japan’s cultural past in a thoroughly modern context. Re-Muji encourages customers to recycle their unwanted clothes by dropping them off at Muji stores. These garments are then washed, dyed using traditional indigo (or “Japan Blue”), and resold as “upcycled” fashion.
The initiative, part of a larger effort by Muji and 25 other companies through the JEPLAN initiative, recalls Japan’s communal heritage, where local dyers would refresh faded fabrics and clothes. For centuries, these dyeing traditions were essential to many communities, especially in the famous indigo-producing regions of Tokushima and Awa. Muji’s revival of this age-old practice is a prime example of how cultural traditions can drive modern sustainability. By reusing clothes, giving them a second life, and using natural dyes like indigo, Muji not only reduces textile waste but also strengthens the cultural link between clothing and sustainability.
The project, part of a larger effort by Muji and 25 other companies through the JEPLAN initiative, harked back to an earlier era when local dyers would revitalize faded clothes, a practice central to many communities. By reusing and reselling these clothes, Re-Muji not only reduced waste but also revived the cultural heritage of reusing textiles. In 2018, the initiative expanded to include reclaimed wool, further promoting circular fashion.
Additionally, any garments deemed unsalvageable were recycled into bioethanol through JEPLAN’s BRING FUKU FUKU scheme, turning waste into a renewable resource. This innovative approach to recycling draws directly from Japan’s long history of resourcefulness and respect for materials, demonstrating how culture can inform modern sustainability.
The Shikkaiya Tradition: Repairing a Legacy
Japan’s deep-rooted respect for textile longevity and care can be traced to the shikkaiya, skilled textile repairmen integral to the kimono culture. These artisans would mend, clean, and reassemble damaged garments, extending their life and ensuring that no fabric was wasted. The shikkaiya were especially prominent during the peak of kimono wear in Japan. Their work was not just about repair but about preserving the stories and craftsmanship woven into each garment. However, with the decline of everyday kimono use in the mid-20th century, the shikkaiya gradually disappeared. Still, their influence endures, especially in regions like Kyoto and Niigata, where silk production continues to be a highly valued craft.
Reiko Sudo, a key advocate for sustainable fashion in Japan, draws inspiration from these textile experts. She emphasizes that the careful, artisanal approach to fabric care seen in the shikkaiya tradition has much to offer in today’s fashion landscape. For example, many modern designers, like Sudo herself, incorporate the concept of visible mending and patchwork into their collections, giving a second life to garments instead of discarding them. This approach aligns with the growing global movement against the fast fashion model, which encourages disposable consumerism.
The importance of textile longevity is especially poignant given the current environmental impact of textile waste in Japan. According to recent statistics, 1.97 million tons of textile waste are generated annually in Japan alone, with roughly 90% of this waste being incinerated or sent to landfills due to the lack of a comprehensive recycling system. By returning to practices that prioritize fabric care and longevity—such as those taught by the shikkaiya—designers like Sudo hope to reverse this trend, fostering a more sustainable relationship between consumers and their clothing.
In many ways, Japan’s traditional textile practices provide a cultural blueprint for the global fashion industry. As designers reintroduce these age-old methods, they offer not only a way to preserve valuable materials but also a reminder that sustainability in fashion can be achieved through reverence for the past. Whether through mending, reusing, or reimagining existing garments, the shikkaiya legacy continues to influence how we approach clothing today—an example of how the intersection of culture and sustainability can yield innovative solutions.
Anrealage: Sustainable Innovation Through Cultural Reflection
A leading figure in Japan’s sustainable fashion scene is Kunihiko Morinaga, the founder of the innovative brand Anrealage. Morinaga believes that the future of fashion lies in rethinking our relationship with clothing, emphasizing quality, longevity, and creativity over fleeting trends. His philosophy ties directly into the concept of “couture 3.0,” which promotes original, well-made garments that are meant to last and be cared for—without the hefty price tag typically associated with high fashion.
Morinaga’s designs often incorporate the traditional Japanese practice of patchwork, a method born not out of fashion but necessity. Historically, patchwork was used to reuse leftover fabrics, turning them into functional, durable clothing. Morinaga notes, “Japanese people initially did not do patchwork for design; it was about reusing what was left.” This practice embodies Japan’s cultural reverence for resourcefulness, a value that Morinaga has brought into the modern fashion world.
Morinaga also draws inspiration from Jun’ichirō Tanizaki’s In Praise of Shadows, a seminal work on Japanese aesthetics. Tanizaki’s philosophy celebrates imperfections and the subtle beauty of shadows, a contrast to the Western obsession with clarity and brightness. For Morinaga, this cultural approach influences his design philosophy, particularly in the use of natural dyes. By embracing imperfection—whether in dye variations or fabric irregularities—Anrealage challenges the demand for flawless, identical products and encourages the appreciation of uniqueness, a value deeply embedded in Japanese culture.
A Cultural Shift in Fashion and Sustainability
Morinaga is optimistic about the end of the fast fashion era. “I believe the mass consumption clothing market is close to its end,” he says, adding that it is more important to focus on creating original fabrics and utilizing innovative techniques than to chase ever-changing trends. Anrealage‘s 2017–2018 Autumn/Winter collection exemplified this by using laser technology to create a one-of-a-kind bleach effect on denim, eliminating the need for water in the dyeing process. This innovative method reflects the brand’s commitment to sustainability while drawing from Japan’s long-standing textile traditions.
By merging traditional Japanese practices with cutting-edge technology, Anrealage represents the future of sustainable fashion: a fusion of cultural respect, resourcefulness, and innovation. This hybrid approach proves that sustainability need not be an afterthought but can be woven into the very fabric of design.
Conclusion: Japan’s Cultural Legacy in the Sustainable Fashion Movement
Japan’s commitment to sustainability, rooted in centuries-old cultural practices, offers crucial lessons for the global fashion industry. By embracing principles like Mottainai (reduce, reuse, respect) and drawing from traditions like patchwork and textile repair, Japanese designers are shifting the focus from fast fashion to longevity and quality.
Initiatives like Re-Muji, and the work of designers Reiko Sudo and Kunihiko Morinaga, prove that fashion can be both innovative and environmentally responsible. Their efforts celebrate imperfection, reuse, and mindful consumption, showing that fashion need not be wasteful.
As the world seeks sustainable solutions, Japan’s cultural practices offer a timeless model for addressing the fashion industry’s challenges. By merging tradition with innovation, Japan demonstrates that culture is not only an inspiration but a blueprint for a more sustainable future in fashion. This intersection of heritage and creativity is key to reshaping the industry—proving sustainability is a fundamental shift, not a trend.
