An Op-Ed on the intersection of Culture and Sustainability in Ghana by Samata
A multicultural phenomenon, the global fashion industry provides sustenance to designers from a plethora of cultural backgrounds. Exploring the lessons, traditional practices, and cultural philosophies that might benefit the ethical fashion sector, I focused on Ghana, the birthplace of my parents. In doing so I wonder if the space where culture and fashion intersect provides progressive ground in the sustainable fashion conversation. Starting in Ghana, where clothing matters, both expensive contemporary and traditional items are an important symbol of education and wealth.
Ghana’s Visual Eco Dialogue
Fashion’s spotlight is increasingly turning to Africa, a continent rich in culture and creativity. The sub-Saharan African market alone is valued at $31 billion, with Ghana, a cultural gateway to West Africa, boasting an apparel and footwear market worth $167 million. Beneath the vibrant noise of popular cotton wax prints, the conversation around sustainability has always been alive. According to Kofi Laing, Joy 99.7fm radio host and Multi Tv’s fashion presenter, Ghana’s indigenous Adinkra symbols—which date back to royal attire circa 1817—speak volumes about sustainability.
“Adinkra is a sacred cloth using symbols and proverbs of advice relating to the proper conduct of individuals in society,” explains Laing. Crafted by the Ashanti people, these symbols express cultural values and celebrate important events such as elections and anniversaries. Far from being purely decorative, Adinkra patterns communicate deep ethical and philosophical messages.
The origins of Adinkra symbols date back to the early 19th century, closely associated with the Ashanti Kingdom. Initially used on royal garments and ceremonial clothing, these symbols have since become integral to Ghanaian culture. Rooted in tradition and an inherent respect for the earth, Adinkra fabric is still produced today using traditional hand-carving and dyeing techniques, such as those derived from the bark of the badie tree (Bridelia ferruginea).
Adinkra cloth now serves as a powerful visual tool, conveying proverbs, philosophies, and cultural values. It’s used not only in clothing but also in furniture, sculptures, and other artifacts. These symbols carry both literal and philosophical meanings, often delivering messages of sustainability and respect for the environment. Far from an ordinary statement tee, clothing embroidered with Adinkra symbols can convey profound messages of ethical living and a deep connection to the earth.
The counterfeiting of textiles—particularly Chinese imitations, which now account for 60 percent of all textiles sold in Ghana —poses a significant challenge to Ghanaian manufacturers like Ghana Textile Products and Akosombo Textile Products. These fake textiles, often poorly made with inferior printing techniques and quick-to-fade fabrics, are at odds with the true essence of Adinkra, which calls for quality and respect for tradition.
One example is Nsaa, a symbol that represents authenticity and excellence. Laing explains that the proverb for Nsaa, “Nea onim nsaa na oto n’ago,” translates to, “The one who knows the nsaa blanket is willing to buy it, even when it is old.” This emphasizes that true quality, once recognized, is worth investing in—something especially poignant in today’s world, where clothing has become increasingly disposable. According to recent studies, the average garment is worn only 7 times before it is discarded, and the global fashion industry is now responsible for 92 million tons of textile waste each year. Nsaa reminds us that value lies in longevity and enduring quality, not in the quick turnover of fast fashion. There is now a movement to preserve local manufacturing and encourage consumers to choose durable items that last, embodying a commitment to sustainable production.
The Adinkra symbols are hand-carved onto gourds and stamped onto cotton cloth with natural dyes sourced from the bark of the badie tree (Bridelia ferruginea). The symbol Asae, for example, conveys a deep reverence for the earth, reminding wearers of their responsibility to nature. The proverb “Asase y3 duro se po” translates to “The earth is heavier than the sea,” underscoring the importance of recognizing the earth as the giver of life, shelter, and beauty. These visual messages not only promote sustainability but also serve as a reminder of our deep connection to the environment, encouraging us to think more carefully about what we wear and how we treat the planet.
That these traditional prints can evolve and remain relevant is not even a question for Nana Yaw Designs founder and designer, Dennis Hunter, who believes sustainability is a dynamic mainstay in the Ghanaian fashion market, “Tradition is fluid by nature. There’s a fallacy to assume it’s static. Traditional fabrics will always be part of who we are; the look of the garments will change with time. So it’s a fluid sustainability.”
The Ghanaian Way: Tradition Meets Sustainability
Laing co-signs, “Culturally, traditional pieces – bespoke and tailored – are carefully preserved, and handed down from generation to generation. This will always be part of the Ghanaian way of life”. As Ghana joins global Fashion Revolution Day activities, AAKS designer Akosua Afriyie-Kumi emphasizes how culture provides a natural framework for ethical fashion practices. “From funerals to weddings, the strong cultural traditions in Ghana inherently promote sustainability,” she notes. Woven cloth, often created in small villages like Bonwire in the Ashanti region, takes around two weeks to produce, the epitome of slow fashion. Customers who purchase these locally made fabrics are making a conscious decision to support handmade production, furthering sustainability without even realizing it.
Kofi Laing echoes this sentiment, asserting that traditional pieces—bespoke garments and carefully tailored clothing—are meticulously preserved and passed down from generation to generation. Unlike the Global North, where fast fashion is king, Ghanaians continue to value high-quality, locally made garments, crucial heirlooms, bespoke tailors, and super slick Ghanaian ready to wear brands like Christie Brown and social enterprise-driven Studio 189 (whose traditional batik promote artisan culture) continue doing well.
Even though Ghana spends $65 million on importing used clothes from the UK, local bespoke tailoring remains a staple. “In Ghana, every garment made by a seamstress or tailor is expected to be carefully crafted for long-term use,” Laing explains. This commitment to longevity is not just about personal taste; it reflects a broader cultural reverence for sustainability as a necessity.
Bespoke Tailoring and Sustainability: The Ghanaian Model
Tailoring and bespoke fashion are deeply embedded in Ghanaian culture. “We tend to find a tailor or seamstress in our teens, and that relationship follows us through our lives,” says Laing. The same tailor who makes a graduation dress might also sew wedding dresses, maternity clothes, and even garments for a funeral. This deep, personal connection to clothing and its maker ensures that the garments are cherished and cared for, fostering sustainability through emotional and cultural value.
Could citizens learn from this approach? Brands that offer bespoke services, such as the women’s-only Savile Row tailor Gormley & Gamble or the high-tech online services like Sumissura and Proper Cloth, could help revive the appreciation for custom-made garments. If consumers from other parts of the world built relationships with smaller, independent brands and valued clothing as a keepsake—something designed to last a lifetime—it could drive a shift toward more sustainable fashion.
As Kofi Laing concludes, “There is nothing that can come close to a garment made to your individual measurements. Ghanaians treasure this kind of quality, and we keep these pieces for a lifetime.”
Final Thoughts: A Culture of Sustainability
Ghana’s approach to fashion offers valuable insights into the sustainable fashion movement. From the cultural significance of Adinkra symbols to the emphasis on quality and longevity in bespoke tailoring, Ghana’s fashion practices are inherently aligned with sustainability. By recognizing the importance of culture and tradition in shaping sustainable practices, we can create a fashion industry that is not only ethical but deeply rooted in respect for people, the planet, and cultural heritage.
Note from our CEO, Samata Pattinson
At BLACK PEARL, we believe in celebrating the many vibrant ways cultural sustainability thrives within the fashion industry—especially in in culturally rich countries like Ghana, where tradition and innovation walk hand in hand.
We’re on a mission to build a comprehensive, inclusive database that highlights fashion brands and companies making an impact through cultural sustainability. Our database is grounded in the pioneering Sustainable Style Guide for Everyone, a free, educational resource that empowers all who wear clothes. This guide provides practical knowledge, actionable challenges, and real-world solutions for sustainable fashion—no matter your age, race, gender, background, income, or beliefs. It’s about making sustainable choices accessible to all, with a focus on the culture, history, and values that make fashion so much more than just clothing.
But we need your help! We’re calling on our community to recommend the brands and companies that embody this vision of cultural sustainability. Our goal is to shine a light on a diverse range of voices and creators, ensuring that the full spectrum of sustainable fashion is heard and celebrated.
If you know of brands that fit our criteria, we want to hear from you! Together, we can create a platform that honors the richness of culture, empowers communities, and champions the future of fashion.
Learn more about the database and how you can get involved here.
