Stigma, Sharing & Cultural Resourcefulness

Overcoming the stigma around sharing clothes within families and communities opens the door to something powerful: cultural resourcefulness. It means seeing second-hand pieces not as lesser, but as treasures, and moving past shame towards respect for the stories these garments carry.

In her article From My Mother’s Wardrobe: Why Wearing Hand-Me-Downs Is Better Than Buying Something Brand New, London-based fashion writer Ella Citron-Thompkins reflects on the emotional value woven into second-hand clothing. Every crease, hole and stain, she writes, tells the story of a previous owner, connecting us to the past in a way new, mass-produced clothes never can.

7

times the average garment is worn before it’s discarded

92M tons

of textile waste produced every year

10%

of global carbon emissions linked to fashion

The scale of the problem is stark. Studies show the average garment is worn only seven times before it’s thrown away, and an estimated 92 million tons of textile waste is produced every year. Keeping clothes in use for longer cuts that waste and offers a real alternative to fast fashion, an industry often estimated to be responsible for around 10% of global carbon emissions.

Ella Citron-Thompkins
Credit: Ella Citron-Thompkins

“

There’s something incredibly sentimental about wearing the exact same dress today that my mum wore in the 90s. Automatically, I feel connected to her and the experiences she had while wearing it.

Ella Citron-Thompkins · Fashion writer, London

Her words capture a bond that goes far beyond wearing a piece of clothing: a connection to family, memory and moments shared. And she is far from alone. Hand-me-downs are not just practical. They are a cultural practice that pushes back against throwaway culture and honours the wisdom of the generations before us.

One Idea, Many Words

A Global Vocabulary

All over the world, passing clothes on carries its own name, and its own feeling.

Hand-me-downs

US and UK

Hand-me-overs

Australia

Pass-me-downs

India and South Africa

Ukay-ukay

The Philippines

Mottainai

Japan

Friperie

France

Gebrauchtkleidung

Germany

Abiti di seconda mano

Italy

二手衣物 · Èrshǒu yīwù

China

Ropa de segunda mano

Mexico

In the United States and the United Kingdom, “hand-me-downs” carry both practical and sentimental value. In Australia, “hand-me-overs” speaks to generosity and sharing. In India and South Africa, clothing finds new life as “pass-me-downs”, while in the Philippines, ukay-ukay thrifting brings a sense of adventure to reuse. In Japan, mottainai, a deep respect for resources and a rejection of waste, champions reusing and repurposing what we have.

Each word is different, but the meaning is shared: finding value in what already exists, and in the stories our clothes carry.

Narumi by Utagawa Kunisada
Credit: Narumi by Utagawa Kunisada, 1845

Through Time

A History of Passing It On

Hand-me-down culture has deep roots, shaped by economics, society and culture. In Japan, kimonos were long passed down through families, a mark of how highly textiles and the skill behind them were valued. In India, handing clothing down within extended families has been a tradition for generations, driven by practicality and by family connection.

19th century

Industrialisation; passing clothes down is common across classes

1930s

The Great Depression makes sharing a necessity

1940s–50s

Post-war rationing makes hand-me-downs everyday life

1960s–70s

Counterculture embraces thrift as rebellion

Today

A response to fast fashion and environmental concern

As industrialisation spread in the 19th century, passing clothes down was common in wealthy and working-class families alike. During the Great Depression, it became a necessity. Sharing clothes wasn’t only practical. It was a way to keep dignity and solidarity within communities.

Archive photograph
Credit: Fox Photos

The phrase “hand-me-down” itself dates back at least to the 19th century, but it was the rationing and austerity after the Second World War that made the practice part of almost every family’s life.

In the 1960s and 1970s, the counterculture embraced thrift shops and hand-me-downs as a rebellion against mainstream consumerism, celebrating individuality and a DIY spirit long before sustainability entered the mainstream. Today, growing environmental awareness and frustration with fast fashion are giving that history new relevance.

Heirlooms

My Mother’s Sari

On the Shelf

My Mother’s Sari

Sandhya Rao · Illustrated by Nina Sabnani

In this children’s book, a young girl finds magic in her mother’s saris, “long like a train” and “filling the air with color.” One sari becomes a river, another a secret hiding place. Wrapping herself in the fabric sparks her imagination, and the illustrations capture the textures, colours and deep bond between mother and child, showing how clothing can hold memory and spark wonder.

Credit: ‘In My Mother’s Sari,’ Meera Ganapathi

Writing in the online magazine The Soup, Meera Ganapathi explores the bond between women and their mothers’ saris, garments that become heirlooms, linking generations and carrying memory and love as much as cultural meaning.

Heirloom · Pure chiffon sari, Mysore

Shagun Seda Sengupta, 34, creative director

“This is a 23-year-old pure chiffon sari from Mysore that my father gifted my mother. I love how it’s so simple yet so striking. Since it was a gift from my father, I never had the nerve to ask my mother to give it to me. On her 60th birthday, in a fit of motherly love, she finally gave me this sari.”

Stories like hers show how these garments move beyond fashion, becoming symbols of family, personal history and the emotional legacy handed from one generation to the next.

Credit: ‘In My Mother’s Sari,’ Meera Ganapathi

Could we imagine a future where hand-me-downs are celebrated not just as practical, but as iconic?

The stigma around second-hand clothing runs through many cultures. Yet sharing and wearing pre-loved garments is rooted in resourcefulness, and in valuing what we already have. Cultural sustainability thrives when we let go of that stigma, for the good of people and the planet alike.

West Africa

Full Potential

Credit: Kofi Ansah

West African bespoke fashion shows what it means to use a garment’s full potential. Wax-print cloth, known as ankara in much of West Africa and as kitenge in East Africa, is typically bought as a 12-yard full piece or a 6-yard half piece. What isn’t used for the main garment is never simply thrown away. It is put to use, a sign of deep respect for materials.

Body drape
Cooking apron
Headwrap
Baby carrier

The cloth becomes a body drape, a cooking apron, a headwrap, or a wrap for mothers carrying babies on their backs. Far from an afterthought, these uses reflect careful planning and intentional design. That same philosophy, making the most of every yard, continues to shape contemporary fashion, proving that traditional practice can evolve while staying true to its principles of longevity and function.

In Closing

Not Just a New Chapter, but a Full One

These many words for sharing reflect more than language. They reflect a shared understanding that garments and textiles deserve not just a new chapter, but a full one.

With the fashion industry generating vast amounts of waste every year, the world is already telling us the stories we need to hear. By embracing these practices, we can value what already exists, honour its history and potential, and stretch our materials as far as they can go.

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